On Fri, 6 Dec 2013, Warren Young wrote: > On 12/6/2013 16:34, Michael Hennebry wrote: >> The power supply is a sealed unit, > > I think you'll find that once you unscrew it from the case, you'll > expose another set of screws that will let you remove the power supply's > lid. The odd hole in the back of the case is designed to block access > to these screws, on purpose. If I remove the right screws, I think that moving it farther into the case would allow it to be removed. For that, I'd want it on its side so that it didn't fall on something. > Don't touch anything in there unless you know your microfarads from your > microhenries. Just take pics. I do, but I'm still not likely to try to fix it. > Some advice, based on prior experience receiving uselessly bad pictures > in the DIY electronics slice of my life: > 1b. Bounce or diffuse as much of the light as possible. Lots of direct > light is good, but if it creates blown-out flare spots or inky shadows > that obscure detail, it's still no good. There are many ways to make > cheap diffusers and bounce cards: old thin sheets, tin foil, poster > board... Tenting a sheet over your head and the case can give a better > result than a bright direct light. If your camera's flash is > articulated, bounce it into the scene rather than shoot directly in. My office has a large flourescent light. If the pictures are not well enough lit, I can change the illumination angle. I'm open to suggestion, both in regard to lighting and in regard to subject. For now, nap time. -- Michael hennebry at web.cs.ndsu.NoDak.edu "SCSI is NOT magic. There are *fundamental technical reasons* why it is necessary to sacrifice a young goat to your SCSI chain now and then." -- John Woods